Our first trip to the Philippines was unforgettable – from Whaleshark swimming, to renting mopeds and driving through rice field, and island hopping – we definitely didn’t have enough time in this lush country, but the taste left us itching to go back one day.
We flew to Cebu and had a 3 hour transfer by car from Mactan Intl Airport to our hotel in Santander, Cebu. This was pretty seamless but Dumaguete airport is much closer and might be a better option to fly to if you’re heading to Oslob or Siquijor. There are ferry terminals in Dumaguete and Santander (near Oslob), connecting to Siquijor. Alternatively Panglao airport in Bohol is convenient for transfer to Siquijor, followed by a one hour fast ferry to the island.
Our hotel was relatively basic but clean, with an infinity pool, a restaurant and nice big rooms with balconies, and a bar of course (check out Eden Resort here) Don’t plan on leaving your resort for restaurants or to go to town in the evenings, there isn’t much around (except people living in shacks…!)
Whaleshark watching
It cost 300 pesos for a return tuk tuk to Oslob at 5.00am (15mins) to see the whalesharks. It costs 1000 pesos (€18) for whaleshark snorkelling (or 500 pesos to stay in the boat and observe). It’s best to get there before 5.30 to try get on to the first lot of boats – you queue for tickets and then queue to pay, before being briefed on do’s and don’ts, getting your lifejacket and hopping on the boat (each boat takes around 12 people). The whalesharks are enormous, but harmless. They are wild animals, but they return everyday, lured by free food. You’re in the water for 30-40mins. Bring a go pro if you can!
The Sardine Run in Maolboal:
You can’t miss the Sardine Run, swimming with thousands of sardines in Maolboal, if you’re in the area, but as we were there across Christmas, we lost a day and didn’t really have time. It is possible to do from Santander, at a cost of 1500-2000 pesos (c.€30) for a taxi ride which takes 1hr. You can also get a bus that takes twice as long. You can get a bus from Cebu for 110pesos which takes 3 hours. You can rent snorkles there cheaply, and swim out 30m from the shore to see the sardines. There is no fee.
Day trip to Sumilon Island from Santander
You can rent a small boat from Oslob pier to bring you to Sumilon island for 1500-2000 pesos which takes 15 minutes. For crystal blue waters and a whiter than white sandbar, be sure to go during low tide. There’s a 50 pesos conservation fee.
Day trip to Manjuyod from Santander/Dumaguete:
Known as the Maldives of the Philippines, these villas are on a remote sand spit north of Dumaguete, known as Manjuyod. To get there from Dumaguete, take a 1.5hr bus (Ceres lines) to Bais. From Bais you can get a 20 minutes boat to the Manjuyod Sandbar. A little more compicated from Oslob: get a ferry to Dumaguete first and follow the above instructions. Alternatively, get a bus from Santander to Bato, a ferry to Tampi port and a 45 mins taxi to Manjuyog (faster route). See Rome2Rio options here.
Getting from Santander to Siquijor:
It cost 100 pesos for our transfer to Liloan port (7mins).
The ferry from Liloan in Santander to Siquijor goes once a day at 10am, get there for 09.40 to pay the 17pesos terminal fee and grab a seat. Tickets are paid for onboard-a guy comes around during the sailing. It costs 200 pesos pp and takes 2.5 to 3 hours. It’s slow but very calm.
Siquijor
I deffo recommend buying your return tickets upon arrival to avoid queues and save time on the way back.
Transfer by car from Larena port to our hotel in San Juan cost 650 pesos (or 350 pesos by tuk tuk), ask your hotel to arrange this ahead of time if possible.
Top things to see and do in Siquijor:
-Rent a motorbike for 400pesos for the day: it takes about 3 hours to circumnavigate the whole of Siquijor Island: wave to all the friendly local kids, see how the locals live, spot all the churches, and watch out for the homemade weight bench made from stone on the West side of the island. Head to the East side to catch the sunset around 17.30 (in Winter), 18.30 in Summer.
-Cambugahay Falls: a 10 min walk down steps to this turquoise series of waterfalls, it costs 50 pesos to swing in like Tarzan, but access and swimming is free.
-Infinity Heights: stay a night at this incredible resort, relax in the infinity pool and take in the panoramic view, overlooking the whole island, watermelon shake in hand.
-Head to Coco Grove, the best known resort on the island (200 pesos entry, but this credit can be used against food and drinks). Right next door is the Marine Sanctuary, if you’re up for some snorkelling. The reviews are mixed.
-Head to happy hour at Baha Beach bar (4-6pm) for cheap cocktails and great food.
-Catch the sunset on the outside terrace at Infinity Sands in San Juan, sipping on a cocktail or iced coffee (happy hour is 4-8pm), and it really is the perfect sunset watching spot, and the staff are incredible. We also stayed here and loved it.
Two notes:
One, don’t head to Siquijor for crystal clear white sandy beaches of Boracay, they aren’t like that. Here’s a pic – but the island has plenty else to offer. Head to Boracay, Corón or Palawan for the beaches.
Two, Salagdoong is a beach park located on the Northern tip of Siquijor that I would avoid. It supposedly costs 15pesos for entry, though we were charged 80 pesos for 2 people and moped parking. The park looks like it’s past its glory days, and is quite run down but there are small beaches where you could swim and there’s 2 diving boards and a water slide in to the sea, both of which were closed when we were there (perhaps due to low tide) so we didn’t enjoy it all that much (it’s pretty run down).
Panglao
We caught the 12.30 boat from Larena port in Siquijor to Tagbaliran. A fast ferry, this only takes 1.5hours and costs 700pesos (or 1000pesos for the comfier, cleaner business class seats).
The transfer from the port to Alona Beach in Panglao was 600pesos.
Alona Beach
Alona Beach is a white sand beach which has become very popular in recent years, it’s very busy but nice all the same- with dozens of cafes, bars and dive shops along the seafront. Make sure to schedule some time here for scuba diving/ snorkelling, as the area is a marine sanctuary and has some beautiful dives. Alona Beach is perfect for sunset watching, if the weather gods are good. You can rent a two person kayak at Sea Explorers halfway down the left hand side of the beach for 300 pesos for an hour. The water here is incredibly clear and worth a dip and some exploring.
Balicasag Island
You can join a group tour to Balicasag Island and the Virgin Island (sand spit) for 400pesos, or rent a private boat to go for 2500pesos. Beware of hidden charges (for swimming/ snorkelling) and try to bring a packed lunch, as prices on the island are inflated and the quality isn’t great.
If you’re looking for more outdoor adventure in Bohol, you can sign up to zipline through Chocolate Hills natural heritage site, or just go visit the famous formations.
Recommended restaurants in Alona beach: Pyramid, Paprika for incredible views, Sunset Mexico, or just grab an iced coffee, cocktail or smoothie and enjoy the views.
We flew out of the newly opened Panglao Intl Airport, where there is one food stall selling rice dishes and snacks, weak WiFi and strong aircon. The transfer by Jeepnee from Alona Beach took 10 mins and cost 200pesos (convenient transfer!).
Suggested itinerary:
Our trip was most definitely rushed, but if I were to suggest an itinerary for the area, I’d spend 12-14 days and do the following:
4-5 days Santander:
Maolboal Sardine Run,
Day trip to Sumilon Island
Day trip to Manjuyod
Chill day by the pool
Swimming with Whalesharks in Oslob, before ferry to Siquijor at 10am
2-3 days in Siquijor:
Rent motorbikes, drive around the island
Visit Cambugahay falls
Go to Coco Grove beach resort and marine sanctuary
Stay a night at infinity heights
3-4 days at Alona beach, Panglao:
Scuba dive for a day
Beach day
Day trip to Balicasag island
