Siem Reap
Siem Reap is a small city, with a really cool vibe. On a scale of development levels, it’s probably a step behind Vietnam, and 20 years behind China. There average household earnings and living standards would be low, and expect to see a lot of disabled people begging on the streets, given that the dark history and struggles of the Khmer Rouge regime were not so long ago (c. 1980) (to learn more about that, I would recommend watching First They Killed My Father). We really liked the vibe of the city, and I would say this place is a must-visit once in your lifetime, as the temples are truly out of this world and steeped in history. This was the Roman Empire of the East, and the remnants are awe-inspiring!
When to visit:
Dry season is from November to April in Cambodia, try visit during this timeframe if you can. We went in January, across New Years and the weather was so perfect – we could chill by the pool between temple visits. June-September is rainy season, so you have to navigate storms en route to the temples, but there are fewer tourists then, so it’s a trade off.
Visiting the Temples:
A one day temple pass is $37, and it’s advisable to buy the day before you visit the temples at the visitor centre if you plan on going for sunrise. A nice little perk is that you get access to the park for the evening after buying the pass (after 5pm) and ergo watch can sunset for free (see below my top spots for sunset).
A three day pass costs $62, we opted for this and I didn’t regret it.
The main temples tourists visit are:
1. Angkor Wat: Originally built as a Hindu temple, Angkor Wat is now a Buddhist temple and represents the largest religious monument in the world. It’s the most famous of all the temples in Siem Reap, and its name lends itself to the whole complex. Open daily 5.00am-5.30pm.
2. Bayon Temple (Angkor Thom): One of the most distinct temples, well known for the smiling faces facades which tower above the complex on the upper tiers of the temple. Open daily 7.30am-5.30pm.
3. Taprohm, aka Tomb Raider temple, is one of the most visited temples in the complex. It is unique in that it remains in the same condition as it was discovered: with trees and roots growing through the temples that sit in the middle of a jungle, creating a very Indiana-jones vibe! Open daily 7.30am-5.30pm.
We hired a guide to do these three in one day, it was $40 for 11hours, but to be honest I think we would have been better off with a good audio guide, as we found our guide hard to understand, but he did know all the good photo spots 😀 However, many people recommend getting a guide at least for one day, to gain insight into the vast history of the complex. The tuk tuk was $23 for the whole day (he waits at each spot for you to return and brings you to the next stop). We organised both through our hotel.
Some people rent a bike and cycle to the park but it’s very dark, with no lighting, when there’s no sunlight. Renting a motorcycle is also an option but honestly I think driving in Siem Reap would be taking your life in your own hands🤣and hiring the tuk tuk means you don’t need to worry about directions or parking.
My favourite temples:
Bantheay Srei: Also known as Ladies Temple, Bantheay Srei is one of the best preserved temples I saw. It’s pink/ orange in colour and absolutely breathtaking. Worth the 1 hour tuk tuk journey to get there. Open daily 7.30am-5.30pm.
Preah Khan: While not as well preserved, Preah Khan temple is great to wander around and get lost in. Some of the carvings have survived really well. It can be grouped with Neak Pean and Ta Som which are close by, and Bantheay Srei (above) if you want to make a day trip of it. (Total cost for all 4 by Tuk Tuk was $28). Open daily 7.30am-5.30pm.
Best spots for sunset:
Phnom Bakheng, a temple on top of a hill that overlooks Angkor Wat and has panoramic views of the whole park (20 minute easy climb through the woods). Open daily 05.00-19.00.
Pre Rup, a temple with high vantage point for sunset. Probably one of the top sunsets I’ve ever seen (we were so lucky, cause we stayed later than most people and the sky turned red and purple and it was unforgettable!!) It does get quite crowded around sunset, but we came down from the top level to the third highest level for a less crowded view and nice shots of the temple with fewer people in them. Open daily 05.00-19.00.
Take a hot air balloon ride for $115 over Bakong temple for sunrise/ sunset- they collect you at your hotel and it’s roughly a 30 minute drive away, subject to weather conditions (we were unlucky in that we got there and it was cancelled ‘cause of the wind, but they gave a full refund).
One of the rooftop bars in Siem Reap: Purple Mangosteen, Akas Rooftop Beach Pool Bar and Restaurant
Sunrise spots:
Pool of Reflections, Angkor Wat: Be warned, you’ll be fighting for a clear view with 1000 other tourists here, but it is still pretty surreal watching the sun rise over what essentially was the Roman Empire of Asia. Snap a pic at the pool of reflections on the left hand side, then head to the right of the entrance walkway and sit by the quieter pond and enjoy breakfast with a view. 05.00-19.00.
Bakheng would also be incredible for sunrise, given the altitude and panoramic view of all angles. 05.00-19.00.
Contemporary Temple:
We ventured to Wat Bo, a temple near the city centre which is more modern than the ancient temples, but so colourful and worth a quick trip. We visited there before grabbing brunch in ARTillery on our last day. Address: Wat Bo Road, Siem Reap.
Dress code:
A note about the dress code for temples: be respectful and cover you knees and shoulders when visiting – you might be refused entry otherwise. Be sure to wear good shoes for visiting the temples, as the surfaces are uneven and a good bit of climbing is required.
Where to eat, drink and cocktail:
Pub Street: The main area to head to for food of all tastes and cultures. Side note: do not go here for New Years Eve unless you wanna celebrate with 2 million locals!!
ARTillery: a healthy foodie spot serving vegan and non-vegan food- delicious. Try the jackfruit tacos and the ginger g&t or detox chocolate shake.
Sister Srey: a cafe cum social enterprise who donate a portion of profits to educating locals. Great coffee, a nice atmosphere and amazing brunch and sweet treats.
Miss Wong’s cocktail bar: a Shanghai-style Chinese cocktail bar, with killer decor and great cocktails.
Banana Tree: this is a gem that is hidden in a street off the main road near Ta Prohm. You sit/ lie on the raises floor above a pond of goldfish, style is colourful adorned Cambodian silk. The food is authentic local food, and delicious.The cashew shakes are dreamy.
Temple: a comfy and trendy cafe/ bakery near the river, good for an iced coffee and chill.
Mad Murphys: a quiet(!) Irish bar near Pub Street with good, trustworthy food and cocktails.
King’s road: a food and shopping street near Made in Cambodia, good for a wander if you’re looking for somewhere to eat. Good for a stroll and to pick up locally made gifts too.
Shopping:
Psar Chaa Old Market: a local market between the river and Pub Street. Open all day, everyday this market sells clothes (scarves, T-shirts, sports clothes, silk sarongs (handy for the temples), shoes), trinkets, bags, bikinis, spices, tea, food and my favourite part, gem stones and jewellery. (Particularly good if the airline lost your bags and you need pants and long cover-ups to go visit the temples!)
Made in Cambodia market: showcasing a selection of handmade goods- clothes, jewellery, soap, etc – all made in Cambodia. Nice for a browse.
Where to stay
Central Privilege: a nice, affordable hotel with a pool and amazingly helpful staff, 10 mins walk from Pub Street and the right side of town for the temples (around €50 a night).
White Rabbit Hostel: funky hostel with a paddling pool the length of reception
Purple Mangosteen: a new modern and funky hostel right in the middle of town, near Pub Street, complete with rooftop bar
Central Corner d’Angkor: a quiet area, but close to restaurants, bars, cafes. And only €22 a night!
There are so many affordable options on Booking.com, go have a look and be sure to check out the reviews!
Getting around:
It costs about $2 for a tuk tuk in the city, and about $5 for a tuk tuk to the airport to/ from the city centre. US$ are accepted everywhere, but expect your change in Cambodian riel ($1 = 4000r). It takes about 30 minutes to drive to most of the temples from Siem Reap centre.
Highlights Gallery:
